Min plan er bruke 1400en til SUP/paraving DW under helt lette forhold.
Og til dockstart fortsette med 1350, og muligens få til 1400 og kanskje til og med 1360 etter hvert.

Sabfoil Compare beskriver 1400 med mer manøvrerbarhet og litt svakere pumping, sammenliknet med 1350 og 1360 hvor det er omvendt:

Og ny Leviathan Blackbird "The 1350" er altså 1,9mm tynnere enn vanlig 1350:

Spørsmålet er om jeg med min sommervekt på 85kg vil fikse 1360 noensinne. Og i så fall, vil det være gøy og lekent? Mange går jo tilbake til noe større og mer forutsigbart, etter "å ha fått til". 1360en ble kjøpt for SUP/PW/DW, men så kom 1400 som nok passer bedre for dette.

Til vinging? Ingen av dem. Mine 877 og 1077 Razor Blackbird er klart mer presise og lekne for meg under kjøring av bølger.
Håper å få forhold for testing av 1400en om ikke lenge.

Hit eller ikke

Hvis du skal booke et sted for å primært drive snøkiting, og vindstatistikken veier svært tungt, så skal du nok velge Hardangervidda.
Men områder som Slettefjellet, og videre mot Valdresflya, har en del annet å by på for den kresne snøkiteren.

Slettefjellet er i seg selv en rålekker stigning mot tinder som du etter hvert kan ta når forholdene byr seg. Denne stigningen er kite-vennlig siden den ikke er brattere enn at du klarer stigningen under de aller fleste vindforhold, og er fylt med knauser, mindre kanter og elementer som gjør den til et definitivt mål i seg selv, for lek og naturopplevelse.
Og knausene er ikke større enn at vind på 4+m/s svinger seg fint rundt.
Dette er et lite kjent kite-eldorado!

Utgangspunkt

Parkering ved Raudalen alpint skianlegg. Her kan du gjøre heisbasert (fri)kjøring om vinden ikke har kommet ennå. Virker som det ofte kommer noe på toppen nærmere stengetid, og da er det fint å ha kitesekk og kitebrett/ski klart i bilen.
Heistur kommer i 2026 ned i kr 46 om du har 20-klippkort og medlemskap i langrennsløypeklubben for området, ellers litt mer for enkeltklipp.

Hvilken vind?

Det du skal følge med på, er Yr sin melding for Tjernhaug Slettefjellet, Vang kommune. Det tilsvarer vinden du har om du går opp forbi de første kollene.
På retninger innen NV-SØ vil du nesten ha samme vindstyrke allerede fra toppen av heisen. På SØ-NV vil du ha 1-2 m/s mindre, men vil igjen ha nesten samme vind som på meldinga, om du tar på feller og går opp på en av de første kollene 5-600m fram og opp. Altså der hvor fjellet/snøen "møter himmelen".

Riggested

Start: Ta heisen helt opp. Stort sett fungerer det å rigge rett ned på flata mot sørvest, er bare å skli ned, og krysse langrennsløypa som går forbi til markert pkt 1). Er det lite vind, og knausene skjermer, kan det være verd å gå sørvest ytterligere 50-100m til markert pkt 2), og rigge der.

For nybegynnere og de som bare vil leke seg på myra og de små knausene, så er du allerede der. Stort sett hindres ikke vinden merkbart av geografien, men det vil være noe svakere på den vestlige delen av sletta ved vestlig vind.

Men det slutter ikke her. Du vil se at Slettefjellet bare går opp og opp, straks du er over dette nærområdet.

Videre opp på selveste Mugnetind!

Orange piler er foreslåtte og trolig letteste og sikreste rute.
Nederst i bildet er to småtopper på 1315moh (Tjernhaug, der grusveien over slettefjell kommer til øverste punkt sommerstid), disse danner vel "sørlig grense" for krem-området på Slettefjellet.

Du kan også ta høyre forbi Mathamarskarven, kan være litt lettere med marginal østlig vind. Husk at når det går nedover fra neste rygg etter Mathamarskarven, så har du ikke fall tilbake i fall vinden dør hen..

Har du tid og "trygg vind" kan du forlenge turen i spennende terreng ved å ta vest for Skavletjernet før du runder opp mot Mugnetinden. Men pass på å ikke runde for tett på Skavletjernet, her henger oftest en sinnsykt stor skavl utover tjernet. Østenfor er tryggere.

En god og trygg referanse er ut.no sin fjellski/rando-tur til Mugnetinden:

Har du sterk vind S-SV så kan du, om du er god og tilpasser kite/utstyr, og forholder deg til rasfare, loope opp skaret fra sør mot Mugnetinden. Altså vestligste rødstiplete markering i kartet, og videre opp.
Har bare nesten fått til den selv, var da vind litt øst for sør og mista krafta i le i den trangere delen. Ikke noe tvil om at det vil gå. Men å komme opp fra vestsiden vil mye oftere fungere.

Andre steder å starte med snøkite i området og lenger borte

• Garli: Lite område over en myr, bekvemt nær for mange på Beitostølen. Verken spesielt mye eller lite vindutsatt.
• Valdresflye: Et flatt Eldorado for mange på våren når fylkesveien åpner igjen. Fint sted å lære. Men tross høyde er vinden ofte slapp i forhold til meldinga, på vestlige retninger. Og vest er mest. Tips for deg som begynner å få til litt: Kite opp på lille Fisketjernsnuten og lek der, den er lett og trygg for klatring, og der holder vinden seg lenger enn på flata.
• Nær Bygdin-sundet: Her får vinden klem på vest, og er et godt alternativ om det er marginalt med vind på flya. Men du må først komme deg litt vestover. Ned fra kollen vest for "Same-campen" og mot Raudfjorden, er et alternativ. Da kan vinden være jevn og ha litt økt styrke
  Er du heldig kan du ta deg videre mot Seksin og opp til Svarteknikka, og rundtur over Skyrifjellet.

Det er vanskelig å finne noe som er komplett, godt og fullt oppdatert, ved nett- eller Youtube søk. Prøver derfor å skrive litt rundt det hele og holde denne samlesiden oppdatert.

Dockstart gjennomføring, de tre distinkte fasene:

1. (Løp og) Hopp
2. Gli og posisjoner
3. Pump!

Pkt 1 og 2 læres under ett, regn dette som nok for første økt.
Ikke fokuser på pumping før du klarer å gli deg riktig inn i balanse.

Videoer og andre nettressurser tar gjerne for seg enten 1&2, eller 3.
Det er ganske opplagt, for du bør med fordel kunne pumpe fra før av, enten fra vinging, paravinging eller båt/wake. Det er mye mer tidkrevende å få pumping inn i hode og kropp ved dockstart, pga lav fart. Men ikke umulig, og du skal jo likevel øve hopp og gli. (hva med å paralellt ta en økt i vinden og gjentatt kaste vingen og pumpe?)

Hopp og gli

Har du en liten eller tynn hydrofoil som mer eller mindre må løpes i gang?
Har du et startsted/brygge der du må hoppe uten å kunne løpe?

I fall ja på begge, og du er ny for dette, så bare må du endre minst en av to.
Hvis nei på begge, så kan du velge hva du vil lære (først):

1. Løpestart
2. Hoppstart (ofte kalt rockstart, evt fra bryggehjørne)

Med sistnevnte er det opplagte fordeler med en del ekstra startsteder. Mange eldre (ja det er ikke kidsa som har råd til hydrofoil), gidder ikke tøye, og finner denne metoden mer behagelig.

Min anbefaling er uansett å gjøre alt du kan for å finne en brygge som lar deg løpe. Dette er tryggere. Løp 2 eller 4 steg. Jeg tar 2, men langer godt ut i en jevn sammenkrøket positur.

På lenket nettside nedenfor, bla ned til "..Tips for learning". Les tre første steg.  Merk at "bilde nr 0" mangler. Her var høyre bein bakerst, og på første bilde er han i ferd med å føre dette beinet foran. Ignorer at han var i ferd med å sette tærne ved andre skritt på utsiden, de fleste brygger vil fortsette og du må ved hopp vinkle brettet svakt utover. Uansett, han gjør her en 2-stegs start:

Your Ultimate Guide to Dock Starting

Benjamin May and Stefan Spiessberger will help you with the essential requirements for achieving a successful hydrofoil dock start. They will break it down step by step,

Ikke forsøk dockstart før du har sett denne fra vår venn Gwen, trygg oppstart:

En til mer komplett fra Gwen, noe eldre men relevant:

Mye nyttig fra Nico Hopp i en til dels komplett pakke:

Pumping

Omen Foils har som vanlig teknisk gode og tydelige forklaringer:

Gwen om det viktigste for å lykkes med pumpingen:

Gwen igjen, i en litt nyere video om samme:

Mer, og framover i progresjonen..

Valgte du løpestarten? Da er du litt nærmere den svært vanskelige strandstarten:

1. Gripping paint on top (no longer need for surfwax)
2. Extra stays to the two far corners (there's a little flex stepping hard w my 85kg)
3. Maybe: 20cm deeper and pointy feet for easier leveling on a rocky bottom.

Had a short first session with the 1040, tail mounted. Bigger chop, a good 40 min ride in 9m/s, then low/unstable. 83cm mast. Flux 4.3m wing. Took the bigger 90L Appleslice V3. (it's narrow, but a bit more all-round than the regular midlength shapes)

• Took me 30 min to get used with the pitch control (that is, before removing the tail..) Then the Sea Devil felt forgiving, and agile at the same time, with very nice and quick feedback.
• No more wide lightwind frontwing wrestling when turning, just think "turn"..
• Breaching practically no issue at all.
• Floats up quickly in "the right chop" with a not so wide board, keep a hand on it if you are not starting right away. No big deal.
• A little humming. No big deal.
• Mast foot at least 10cm further forward, compared to my other setups.
• Even with tail it is more agile than most beginners would prefer.

As you probably know already, parawinging is definitely not easy to get into for any of us merely average guys, even if we should think we have pretty relevant background. I have been winging a few years, all sorts of kiting for long, doing various foiling activities like dockstart, SUP, and currently learning downwinding with paddle.

A quick summary before proceeding with lots of details.
By now I think the PT does not help you in getting started with parawinging, compared to the more or less trashbag-style single-skins. It's quite the opposite for most locations and conditions. Make no mistake, you get distinct downsides from the performance you potentially can get with the PT. It's is a lot more to consider, than just the obvious differences in packability compared to single-skins.

I've had the ParaTow 4.2m since 777 started shipping 10 weeks ago. Wind season here gradually starts these days. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get more than 3 sessions on snow, in which one was very helpful to prepare for water. Then 6 sessions with a DW-SUP, only 3 of them with progression to mention.

In some aspects I'm very slowly progressing. I have realized stagnation in other areas. I need to change things if I want to learn parawinging before the autumn is bringing the good waves:
Due to the local conditions I simply need to buy a single-skin to progress.

If I'd had near laboratory-quality stable and strong wind a lot of days days, it is likely that I would continue the learning phase with the PT.
I'm not selling the PT, it was great for certain snow conditions in the mountains (may even get the 5.7 or 8 for that purpose), and I may choose to return to the PT on water after progressing.

The 777-site has gradually been filled with a lot of helpful info. But still not nearly enough to approach this occasionally flying jellyfish in an efficient way. While sounding honest and well meaning, I think their info is not giving the right picture of this product's narrow purpose. Too much "you can do all". To make things worse, it is not entirely clear what it's speciality really is, and which group of users it is targeting. I think 777 meant to give great upwind for all.

I'll get back to the good things I have found with the PT. Things that will just feel better, when or if I'm getting better.
But now lets bring the bad news. These are "extras", trouble that I'm pretty sure you don't have, anywhere near this degree, with a single-skin:

1. Unbalanced, and very sensitive to wind stability when not at speed
2. Demanding steering and stabilizing technique
3. Waste of time trying to learn in less than 10 m/s (20 knots)
4. Wetness really complicates flying
5. Pulley-bar complicates further
6. Multiply the above

At good speed fully inflated I think the PT is basically quite more stable than single-skins (merely based on comments and videos of single-skins). But the PT's constant urge of quickly heading down, also at speed, will probably need quite a bit of your attention for a long time. You need to constantly counteract, specially if you are holding the PT at 45°, which is doable and efficient for upwind. This thing is nowhere as friendly as a kite.

With little or no apparent wind you rely on very stable wind. Or lots of active steering for stabilizing, including big banking movements with your arm. The 4.2m has quite high aspect, and you need to counteract a downward movement from 12-position, surprisingly early. Otherwise the PT's side gets too close to ground/water, enters more turbulent/slower wind, and folds inward.

Then add water. The second, third and so on time you go out, you build up a distinct uneasiness I think must be like bringing your stamp collection foiling. My 4.2m weigh 999 grams with bar and lines. The already heavy masses of canvas gets heavier and the PT sits further back in the wind window. Then you have even less time and power to counteract the fast downward shooting to the sides.

You can with some practice manage even a little off-center wetness, in near lab-quality stable wind. It now works ok for me, pulling it up after a brief touch, if wind is strong and stable enough at the time. But I'm not sure I'd ever get comfortable enough with the PT, to call any wetness negligible.

And it easily gets much worse. If the PT rotates and folds its tips into the water, which it very easily does for a newbie when already wet, it quickly drags water in. I have only once managed to do the draining procedure sitting on my board, and it took around four minutes. Beware that the marketed idea of "..remaining afloat for an extended period", is more like one, max two seconds, if the PT touches with intakes or the outlet against water. Or more likely, as I did, and now do a bit less, accidentally submerge inlets/oulet just a little when grabbing the PT quickly from water. Beware, getting lots of water inside takes 10-15 minutes of ground flying in 8-10m/s to only have small droplets left inside, anything else will clearly be felt.

A significant number of you guys reading this will have a huge beach playground with a stable, strong sideshore wind on a lot of days. Not as when you are thinking while winging or kiting, "Oh, this wind sure is stable today" (well you should, not only complaint) I mean, it has to be stable stable.
In that case you can fly the PT while entering water, and learn restarting etc out there. I went to a such distant location, had one good session and thought such conditions may speed up learning a bit.

My local coastline is different. High and low rocks, spots with sand or other acceptable entry at few places. Often 50m to swim or paddle before steady and stronger wind.
So I pack the PT between the tighs, sitting on knee paddling out, for now using a plus-volume DW-board that buy me some extra time in standing up with this unruly thing over my head, easier setting and retrieving of the PT, and also keeps the PT a bit less wet on the way out.

Still, if the wind is not stable enough (while still being newbie), I drowned the PT and had to to go ashore several times. (You really don't want to loose you exit and walk onto rocks etc also balancing with that by now very heavy RAM-water device)

But there's a workaround, that I warmly recommend for your first period, before actually downwinding.

As the PT is set up when you receive it, it has a huge vent with coarse mesh on the underside of the leading edge, stretching almost from end to end. That's for faster squeezing out the inflation air when grabbing the PT.
Between the prototype and the first shipment, 777 surprised us with adding hook and loop fasteners outside this full width dumping vent, and stuffed optional "freeride covers" in the bag's inner pocket. I thought that was a bad idea, as it complicated this already demanding product with a bit degraded aerodynamics, alittle weight, and most of all smoothness against line tangling.

When installed the freeride covers makes the PT even less smooth against tangling, but I'm not sure if it bother aerodynamics much. I tested fitting all three covers on snow once , and it does get more inflated and gave a bit more stable ride at higher speed. Getting air out seemed to take forever though.

Consider installing the two side covers (that is 2/3-length) for learning, especially if you want a second and third chance of launching in unstable wind near shore etc.
I only did for the last session, and it does help a lot. Turned out like it looked, it's the sides that quickly swallow water, not the center. I had to take the PT down when getting back and close to the shore, with little and turbulent wind, happy to see that deflation didn't take much more time than with no covers.

But it seemed like inflation took a bit longer time with two covers. I will have to watch that some more. Anyway, I think anybody should start with side covers, to mitigate other annoyances while learning with this parawing.

You should really know about the weird steering technique that is required with the PT, that you likely also should apply with any other RAM-air parawing.
The 777 manual explains the steering fairly well, but I'll try add some clarity and refinements so you see the gravity of this, which you may decide you don't like.

Do steering by 1) banking the glider, that is starting to move your hand(s) in parallell to the opposite of the side you want to fly the glider to, then 2) make a yaw movement (twist wrist) starting to turn the near side of the bar to the new flying side. I have experimented a lot while just standing with the PT, and at speed. The banking can be done very quickly, the yaw should be slower and gradually. Never yaw first. You can make the yaw at the same time as the banking, but I'd say it is better to hold back a microsecond after the banking movement is started, to quicker build the correct muscle memory.
And remember to counteract the steering movement to stop the falling movement of the glider, just like with your ride on two wheels.
The 777 guys firmly believe you will find the PT shining once you learn this fully.

Let's say steering in this context is defined by intentionally trying to change riding direction. Banking, yaw, fall over, then counter-banking, counter-yaw.
In stable wind you can skip the banking movement and just make a tiny yaw, then counter yaw, for minor stabilization.

But (btw congrats for reading so far) there's a huge ugly gap between these two handling techniques. Handling wind gusts, not even big ones, definitely seems to require the banking version. I have challenged 777 on that one, and they do not disagree. Maybe you will be less bothered with time. But I think you always will need to to a little banking even for relatively small gusts.

Forget hooking in to a harness if you have even just moderately unstable wind, you won't have enough room for the big banking movements. (the harness line is great though, otherwise very well balanced, used it a lot on snow)
Avoid unstable wind at all costs. Flying the PT would take all your attention. And I guess, feel a bit like riding a motorcycle by standing next to it on a skateboard.

Just think of it, a tiny shift in wind direction yields a lot more change in sideways angle, with lines so much shorter than those of a kite. 777 told me, "less banking with single-skins". When I mention banking to others now trying to start with single-skins, they have no idea what I'm talking about.
I asked a couple of paragliding buddies, saying "Oh, we do banking but only for the biggest moves, not for simple turns". That had me thinking, what if the less direct contact pulley system contributes significantly to the need for banking movement, needed even for the wind gust corrections?

..And now, we are interrupting with some unofficial news from Triple Seven:

• PT-owners will receive an alternate fixed bar/line-setup for easy direct steering, internal testing says it alters the PT a lot.
• The upcoming single-skin, seen on the home page, is said to handle "very nicely".
• There will be a race version.
• The 777 guys hopes to do the announcements next week, with details.

Nothing was said about a PT v1.1, but my guess is that new buyers receive it with fixed bar only, and maybe a smaller freeride cover/outlet.
While only the race version gets the SC/pulley-system, and without dump vent.

The PT-release was a mess. I think they know, and try to fix.
I did the lengthy crazy initial line rebuild instructions, was later sent a rebuild kit that should do the same. Recently they admitted that the kit was a tiny bit better.
Groan. Ok, will wait for the fixed bar kit. My feeling is that it will help, but at the same time it does not make the PT nearly as easy to handle as a single skin.

A note about the rebuild, that was. I had the opportunity to test the PT with some fast riding on snow under very similar conditions, before and after the rebuild. The PT was generally sitting noticeably further back in the wind window afterwards. Hence the better "self centering" they claimed. But I felt the upwind was slightly compromised, although they claimed not. Slightly lowered top speed. For instance, going down a sleek hill where the wind came up, had the PT finally flutter a bit and turn down to the ground, at a little lower angle and speed than before.

It is by no means bad now, and I'd be surprised if any single-skin were anywhere near the PT in upwind/speed performance. My guess is that the upcoming race version will have the PT's initial tuning. Then, guessing again, during the two weeks of PT delivery this turned out to be be just too much for the market, expecting (like me) a bit more omni-potent product.

The PT has outstanding build quality with very good materials. The price was not wrong. They could still have had more patient buyers if they initially used a intro price like another paragliding company did with their parawing. Instead, 777 now has a substantial "summer discount", so my recent feedback for them was:
Double discount for current PT-owners, buying their soon coming single-skin.
It's not so much about the money, I just would like to see them straighten things and give my trust fully.

I'm sure there are other newbie PT-owners that gladly would buy another parawing at a fair price, to speed up learning, and maybe return to the PT later.
I understand that a good single-skin will fly ok in a bit less wind, not needing this crazy attention if it's a little gusty. Then I could progress conveniently at my home spot.

Still want the PT for learning? Take the 3m!!
When I have enough wind to handle the PT (as a beginner), the 4.2m takes me up foiling with a DW-board and a medium big frontwing, usually without foot pumping at all. (btw the PT can't really be pumped) So my guess is that with a 3m you can make use the same days, and save the amount of lines and canvas - somthing we certainly would appreciate.

Still reading?
My five cents; don't write off the race versions.
Randonee competitions have been very popular in Europe lately. The combo of up- and downhill skiing is also loved by spectators.
I can (faintly) see that parawinging can be this equivalent on water, upwind and downwind. Where I live, it could also be super spectator-friendly.
But the fastest parawings first need to evolve I think.

I have the original Dragonfly from 2023 (8'2 21" 121L), and recently got the biggest size Surf edition (8'4 22,75" 145L).
KT is releasing the Surf 2 version these days. This is, judging by measures, a bit more long period friendly and a bit less for SUP surfing and downwinding in steeper and shorter period waves.

If you are downwinding with paddle in mostly wind waves or SUP surfing at a reef or sandbank, the current Dragonfly Surf might be the best for you. At least if you have not yet built extreme skills or have relatively good conditions.

Not that the flattish bottom is what mostly makes the Surf feel more controllable. My experience so far is that the flatter bottom makes it easier to turn the board with my feet when not yet on foil, compared to the original, even smaller board.

See my Surf model pics below, continued with regular Dragonfly side by side.

Sjekket ca midt mellom lav- og høyvann. Brygga er da ganske nøyaktig 50cm over vannflata.
Korrigering: Jeg sjekket ved nymåne, og hadde blingsa litt på tabellen - det var ikke 50 men 75% tidevann den dagen.
Det vil si: Uten å bygge på en litt utstikkende start-planke så er det bare to dager i måne-perioden, med et par timer hver, hvor det funker å dock-starte om du vil ha litt margin mellom stabilisatoer og steiner under vann ved brygga.

Det vil fungere på sørlig vind/bølge-retning, og kun det. Så downwinder nordover, følge grunner 3-6m dype, evt helt til Kleberget. Det er kun ved svært sterk vind

Det geniale med Fuglevikskjæret er at (med mindre ekstrem springflo) så stoppes bølger på det meget grunne sundet østover innover mot land, slik at hoppstart fra brygge er mulig uten forstyrrende bølger. Kjenner denne lille vika/sundet godt fra SUP-padling og annet.
Eneste er at det er begrensa hvor langt du kan svinge brettet fram og tilbake før (psykisk riktig) start. (selv må jeg omlæres fra løpestart, som jeg heller egentlig ikke kan..)

Etter hopp langs brygga mot nordvest og 10-15 m framover, dreie ca 15° mot nord for å gå klar av nordenden av skjæret, og 20m til så er du i dønningene.

Det er vanskelig å si når forholdene slår til for gode dønninger. Det som er sikkert er at hard vind SSØ-S helst fra langt ute, evt gjerne når den roer seg litt, gir de rene mellomraske dønningene som går langs land.

Dønningene er ofte for raske til å kunne traversere med normal profil pump-frontvinge (altså masse løft, feks Sabfoil Leviathan), men med frontvinger som Sabfoil Razor (har testa med 980 og 820 under vinging) og trolig Sabfoil Leviathan Pro.

Har en gang padla meg ut fra Fuglevikskjæret med DW/SUP-foilbrett, var for lite da, men har trua på det. Pumpfoil må jo testes. Prone foil kan funke for den som er god. Uansett måte, lett å se fra brygga nor settene kommer og nesten lett(?) å time.

Merk at du må litt ut med det samme for å ligge på dønningene, og deretter holde en svak bue innover mot båthavn-moloen forå ligge på de beste bølgene (vet fra vinging) Deretter kan de beste bølgene ta deg inn på Kollestranda, eller du kan fortsette ved å sikte en linje 50-100m utenfor svabergene videre. Når du nærmer deg stupebrygga er nok bølgene noe dårligere, men de tar seg opp igjen et par hundre meter senere. Om det slår til.

• Malus Domestica 5'1
• Klokhouse Noseless 5'4

Even at mere 5'1, smallest model, the Malus turned out to be big enough for me (I'm 86kg 190cm), at least in partly powered conditions.
The only session I have had with this board showed that it turned really well with its serious channels, good upwind, but the waves wasn't very rideable then.

Surprisingly easy to kick and grab (for someone, I certainly didn't catch all the time), I'm hoping to finally approach strapless freestyle a little.

Tested with Futures Alpha thruster fins in large, will try the Pancho Control large nex time to see if upwing can be even better on mediocre days at the home spot.

The Klokhouse Noseless (kite mostly version of their Klokhouse surf and kite board) has not been wet yet, will test in waves with the Futures Legacy R8 fins.

Bought the Malus as a display model, maybe a year old. Notice the now slightly grey resin color, compared to the new Klokhouse. (we have to live with it, it's eco)

See also:

Appleslice wingboards, Comparing Apples.

The 70 and 90L Appleslice  from Appletree surfboards - first impressions.

Light and not so steady wind yesterday. The 90L performed well, and has a rigid foil connection. Easily gaining speed for getting me out of old chop. Much better escape velocity than my Ensis R&R 97L, almost as fast as my AK Nomad 90L lightwind/DW board. The Nomad is due to its extra length easier to balance and get going when wind drops severly and there's only chop left. But will of course get more used to all situations in a while.

Sabfoil has replaced the T35 with the very similar model B14. Both are 108cm long. They also have the B08 that is also clearly aimed at pumpfoil, but at 90cm it is not for me.

Pumping with a SUP I have measured the preferred stance to be exactly 90cm, from front of front foot footprint to back of rear foot footprint. Meaning, zero margin for jumping to the right spot. I'm 190cm with relatively long legs, smaller riders with narrower stance may of course think differently when choosing board. And who knows, if I ever advance in dock/rock-start, I might tend to have a narrower stance. Other riders have reported that you can pump the smaller Leviathans almost with same foot pressure, without the need to work so much pointing the board nose up and down. That makes narrower stance more likely I guess.

See board/foil relative sizes in the following pics and make up your mind about your first dock/rock-start board, given that you choose one of the big foils.

KT collaborates with MFC, providing reputable deckpads and straps.

Keith Teboul does not mind showing off his Step Bottom invention, developed with Kai Lenny et al.

Almost as if the Sabfoil Kaken baseplate was made for the step bottom.

Ginxu - KT Surfing

Ginxu Patented. No. 11,027,796, No. 22020001-8 Ginxu Step Bottom Foilboard Pronounced: |ˈɡin-so͞o| Kai Lenny: “The biggest change to foilboards since foiling has started.” Keith Teboul: “The Ginxu range marks a new chapter in foilboards for both high performance riding and entry level ease of use. W…

KT Surfing